When I first saw the bottle on the shelf a few weeks back I laughed. I, out loud, laughed.

The bottle was Annex Ale Project Deuce Malt Liquor. Yes you read that right – Malt Liquor. It has been literally decades since I have consumed anything labelled “malt liquor”

That is why I laughed. I got the joke. Annex Ales – a brewery noted for its quality ales (and sodas) released a malt liquor to celebrate its second anniversary. That is funny.

And, of course, I had to buy the beer.

And I can say it is interesting. I can’t be sure exactly what Andrew Bullied was looking for when he brewed it, but I tasted it in the ironic nature I think he intended.

The beer runs at 7% alcohol and comes in this hilarious 1.2 litre screw top bottle (that is part of why I laughed so much). I do feel a need to note that while it is funny in the context of a craft brewery anniversary beer, the big bottles of cheap, high alcohol beer made by the big boys were/are seriously problematic for vulnerable people with addictions.

The aroma starts with a soft pilsner like malt, followed by a touch of graininess. I also pick up some hints of fruit and honey. Overall it is fairly clean. It pours a medium gold with a slight haze. It forms a big, rocky white head that leaves not insignificant lacing.

In the sip, I first get a bit of generic fruitiness and some soft graininess. The middle picks up a sharp grassy note and a hint of apple. Things go a bit weird on the finish. A harshness develops and a fairly strong alcohol character emerges. The linger has a rough alcohol and yeasty note.

Well, it has been long enough that I don’t remember what my last malt liquor tasted like, so I can’t tell you if this is to style or not. It does seem reminiscent of what malt liquor is about – big alcohol, some graininess and lacking finesse.

It was fun to try – and definitely a cool enough concept to merit writing about – but I am pretty sure I enjoyed it more for the novely than the beer. Not one of Annex’s best efforts, but I am not sure that is what they were even going for.