Which seems more possible? Seeing a real, live unicorn (fat or thin) or a brewery operating in Plamondon, Alberta?

As it turns out, a brewery in Plamondon is not only possible, it actually exists!

The next natural question, dear reader, can expected to be “where is Plamondon?” The answer, of course, is Plamondon is a small hamlet about 30 km west of Lac La Biche in northern Alberta, and it is now home to one of Alberta’s newest breweries. Fat Unicorn Brewery, whose logo is a rhinoceros – get it? – has been up and running since late June. Interviewing and profiling Fat Unicorn has been on my to-do list all summer but I finally hooked up with owner Paul Reutov to chat about his plans for the new operation.

Reutov runs a variety of businesses in the area, including a housing development company, and has been a homebrewer for a long time. “I grew up with brewing. My parents always made homemade wine,” says Reutov. “Don’t get me wrong. I like wine, but I like beer more. It grew from a small hobby and as time and finances allowed I got more and more into it.”

About three years ago, Reutov started seriously thinking about opening a brewery and has been working away at it quietly ever since. “I kept it hush-hush until it was open. Suddenly there was a brewery in town”. The brewhouse was actually ready a year ago, but Reutov moved slowly, making sure everything was in order. “I spent months talking with seasoned brewmasters, make sure I was doing it correctly. I knew what I wanted, I just wanted to be sure  I was doing it correctly”.

At the moment, Reutov has two beer out, both available in 650ml bombers and in kegs. Last Call Blonde Lager is a pale lager in the North American style. Naughty Amber Ale is a red ale with a touch more hop bitterness. More are in the works. “I hope to have four beer out in the new year”, including a Russian Imperial Stout and a rotating seasonal. The choice of the RIS is an homage to his White Russian heritage. The brewery has also been helping out Two Sergeants Brewing, who have used his brewhouse to make beer while their brewery is under construction.

Reutov also plans on being creative with his packaging. He says a bottling line is coming in a month. He plans on doing six-packs of his mainstay beer in unique 330 ml bottles, as well as 12-pack variety packs. He also plans to experiment with one-litre bottles to see how that goes.

The brewery, located on his 1000-acre cattle ranch just outside of town, is a full size operation. The brewhouse is 10-barrel capacity and Reutov currently has six 20-barrel fermenters and 2 bright tanks. He is just working on the finishing touches of the tasting room for growler fills and retail sales. However, he is aware that given his location, he won’t get a lot of walk-up traffic. “There won’t be a lot of walk-in customers. I wasn’t going for that market. I don’t want to be open every day for the public. The tasting room will only be open a day or two a week”, says Reutov. “I want to be a destination on the weekend. People can drive out on weekend, look around, and take some beer home”.

Reutov compares his model to the small cottage wineries in B.C., where people treat them as destinations for a day-long trip. “It will be a winery setting, but selling craft beer. There is a brewery on the hill with malt barley growing all around it”.

Reutov also acknowledges the location has “distribution logistics involved”, in particular as he plans to mostly self-distribute. Given all the disadvantages of locating in Plamondon, why did he choose to set up shop there? “It’s my home”, is his simple answer.

The name, with its clever wordplay, just came to him one day. He was on a trip with his family when the idea popped into his head. “We were traveling and the kids were watching cartoon unicorns and I happened to see rhino”. Despite is odd angle, the name grew on him. “It is something memorable and I knew I could market”.

What is his vision for the beer? “I want to bridge the gap between Bud and deep, deep craft beer”, he says. “I am after the person looking for something different, but might find many craft beer over the top. Lots of drinkers don’t understand craft beer. They are hesitant to buy big, flavourful stuff. Let’s educate them. I want something that has the quality of craft beer but is easier to enjoy. My mainstays are clean, crisp and easy drinking”. Reutov says the seasonals will be more adventurous, but he still plans on sticking to traditional approaches. “I brew with the principle of five ingredients. I don’t get too carried away with my ingredients”.

At the moment the brewery has two full time employees, with Reutov acting as head brewer, salesperson and all-around boss. His son helps out on brew days and he uses the administrative and bookkeeping support from his other businesses along with some casual workers for bottling. He likes it that way. “I want to stick to small batches, not be too commercialized and service the Northern Alberta market. I am not looking to expand across Canada. I want reasonable growth, something I can manage. I am keeping it family-based.”

You might be hard-pressed to find a unicorn around these parts, but clearly up in Plamondon, Fat Unicorns will soon be a common sight.