By now, most of you will have heard of (and sampled) Alley Kat’s little fall surprise – Fresh Hop Full Moon. This is, of course, Full Moon Pale Ale made with fresh hops, rather than the usual dried pellets (they use pellets at Alley Kat). Hops are notoriously unstable flowers and so are normally dried and processed to allow them to be kept for a few months. On the other hand fresh hops, sometimes called wet hops, are just that – freshly harvested hops that have not been dried for storage. They need to be used rather quickly, but if done so impart a fuller, earthier hop character to the beer.

Apparently this beer was not in the Alley Kat fall schedule, but one day a box of fresh hops arrived at the back door of the brewery. No one had ordered it, and no one was expecting it, but there it was. And the same varieties they use in Full Moon. So there was only one thing to be done with that box, wasn’t there? And Fresh Hop Full Moon was born.

I have had a few fresh hopped beer in my day but most were specially designed one-offs. The joy of this particular attempt is that Alley Kat simply swapped the fresh hops for their regular hopping regime in Full Moon, thus allowing for an almost perfect opportunity to isolate the flavour and aroma effects of fresh hops. I did precisely that a week-and-a-half ago on my CBC Radio beer column. I had been hoping to publish a post using the audio file of the piece as the anchor. Alas, the good CBC folks have not posted it yet, and I can await no longer (as every day fewer bottles of Fresh Hop FM remain). So venture forward I must without it.

On CBC I opened a bottle of Full Moon (brewed a couple of days earlier than the Fresh Hop version) and the host and I sampled it. I then opened the Fresh Hop and sipped it. Rarely have I experienced such a stark contrast. The two beer looked identical, deep orange with a thick blanket of white head. But that is where the similarity ends. They were vastly different beer, which fascinates me, given they are essentially kissing cousins.

The Fresh Hop was fuller, more rounded and earthier. The hop aroma and flavour was grassy and earthy, with a distinct green freshness to it. I could taste the hop cone in it. The pairing of the fresh hop taste with soft crystal malt that defines Full Moon was a lovely combination. It seemed like the bitterness levels were higher in the Fresh Hop, even though the Alley Kat folks pledge the IBUs (International Bitterness Units – beer geek talk for how bitter the beer is) were the same. However, we need to remain open to the possibility that the fresh hops have a more efficient utilization than dried hops (although that seems counter-intuitive to me) which could account for the increased perception of bitterness.

Side-by-side the regular Full Moon just seemed to have less life to it, which I know is unfair since it is normally a beer I appreciate for its balance and completeness. That says volumes about the impact of fresh hops.

I strongly encourage all of you who are able (read: are in Edmonton and area) to: 1) pick up a bottle of Fresh Hop right away and 2) do your own side-by-side comparison. You will never get as great an opportunity to isolate the effects of a particular ingredient. Plus then you can enjoy two great beer, instead of one.

In many respects the Fresh Hop reminded me of some of the Greg Nash beer I tasted while in Halifax in the spring. Nash, the brewer at the Hart and Thistle Brewpub, has a knack for imparting fresh hop character in his beer.