Some Canadian breweries get a lot of ink, not undeservedly. We all know about the consistently high quality of Unibroue, the adventurous impressiveness of Dieu Du Ciel, the runaway reputation of Central City’s Red Racer. Some breweries fly under the radar, in more ways than one. I have long argued western Canadian breweries tend to not get their share of kudos (hence this website, but I digress), but there are dozens of other breweries that quietly toil their craft, brewing up quiet gems of barley goodness.

I have a soft spot for the lower profile breweries. Not only might I find a hidden treasure, but I enjoy the adventure of having a beer I know little about. It is kind of like a blind date – you never know how it will turn out.

Today’s review is a perfect example of how blind dates sometimes work out. Before Xmas I picked up a bottle of La Buteuse Brassin Speciale from Le Trou Du Diable. “Who?” you might ask. I wouldn’t blame you. Le Trou Du Diable is a small brewery/brewpub in Shawinigan, Quebec (home of Jean Chretien, the “little guy” himself). Not much of their beer makes it out here – small batches of this and that – so their profile definitely counts as “low”.

La Buteuse is the brewery’s Belgian tripel. However, this particular bottle was aged for four months in brandy cider casks from a local cidery/micro-distillery in Quebec. I wanted to try that out. It presents as a hazy orange copper with a thin white head. The aroma is sour, lambic-like with a sharp lactic note, some quiet earthiness and a touch of sweetness underneath. I also pick up some subtle pear and peach fruitiness.

The flavour has that classic tripel pepperiness and spiciness, along with some pilsner malt sweetness upfront. It balances that with some noticeable sourness, but not overpowering. I also pick up some of that classic horseblanket mustiness. Yes, I said ‘horseblanket’ – that is the only way to describe that particular earthy, musty pungent taste that comes from Brettanomyces fermentation. Taste it once and you will know EXACTLY why we use that word. Overall it is surprisingly balanced, complex and multi-layered. Very rare tasting, if you know what I mean.

It is someting of a cross between a Tripel and a Flanders Red (a sour Belgian style).It (pleasantly) evokes memories of the 3-year-old Orval I had in Brussels one time. Very similar in its mustiness, balance and light sourness. That is high praise, indeed!

The beer is named after Father Buteux, who was tossed by pissed off aboriginals into the falls near Shawinigan (called Devil’s Hole) during colonization. Not sure if Buteux deserved his fate, but his beer certainly deserves kinder treatment.